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Ruffinplumbing and electrical we're gonna dealwith this insulation this is an exteriorwall here it's got insulation that wasbehind the shower and it's in decentshape but it is starting to droopbecause it's been there for over thirtyyears so we're gonna go ahead and pullit down and get rid of it then replaceit with new insulation that has a paperbacker which is a vapor barrier now it'stime to start doing some of theelectrical now electrical is one ofthose things again like plumbing ifyou're not absolutely cozy with itjust hire an electrician they'll get itdone exceedingly very quickly luckily I don'thave to do anything involved I reallyjust need to move a couple of wires andadd a couple of swaps so in this caseI've got a got a couple of rows that come inhere and they're routed on the front ofthe two-by-fours this was all conceals bythe soffit that was here originally butnow that that soffit is gone I need toput drywall back onto these surfaces andthese wires are in the way but luckilyall I have to do is cut the powerdisconnect them from this box and thenpull them up and reroute them abovethese two by fours the last thing Ireally need to add over here is one boxright here so that I can organize a newlight above the mirror ideally you would only want to drillthrough the middle-of-the-road of a ornament like thisbut sometimes an old interpretation youcan't do that now

luckily you can notchout the side of a 2x4 as long as it'sless than 25% if it's a load-bearingstud so to fit these cables around thisupper edge up here we're just going tonotch out a small area I'm about to start doing the plumbingbut one thing I need to do firstly is tolift up the flooring where the shower usedto be there's gonna be a lavatory therenow and so I need to elevate that part offlooring up to match the rest of theroom so when I tile it all it will belevel we're going to change that with asimple portion of 3/4 inch plywood I've got a new bathroom fan that I'mgoing to put in that's right up thereand the old one is controlled by thistimer I want to move this up into thewall and at a light switch to controlall of those so I'm going to take thisdouble mob carton and made it right abouthere these are generally about 48 inchesfrom the field so I'm just going tomeasure up and notch out a lieu to putthis in then fix the drywall right onthe studs I'm going to try to leave asmuch of this in place as possible before I do anything else in the wallsI'm going to go ahead and put up someinsulation on that exterior wall and forthat I'm going to use some r-13 and thishas a newspaper backing on it that backingis for humidity resist because I'mnot going to be using a plastic sheetingwhen I've not applied plastic sheeting inthe past I've had a lot of peoplecomplain about it but whether you usethat or not actually has a lot to dowith your local systems the above reasons youmight require a vapor barricade is based onthe difference in temperature betweenthe outside and the inside of your housein the coldest part of its first year if youlive in a really really cold climate youprobably need one but otherwise you maynot so is ensured to check your local codeyou can buy this substance made to go intomy four wall and it's made for the rightlength so you are able to deposit it right in andnot have to cut it it does have a littlepiece here that you are able to staple to thestuds if you need to but it

actuallywill harbour itself in place until you getthe drywall long you want to press it inthere but you don't want to crunch it upa lot because that will not make it veryeffective if you do have any excess landover here exactly cut it off with theutility spear I tried to put it off aslong as I can but I'm at a spot nowwhere I have to oust the drain linesfor the shower and the bathtub to startfiguring out where those need to go Ihave to look at the shower organisation I'mgoing to use and this is the Kirtisystem by Schluter this is a system ofeverything that you need to fullywaterproof and lay out a shower to getit "re ready for" tile the thing that I'mtrying to figure out right now is wherethe deplete runs and that is all based onthe shower wash now the pan in thissystem is made of two segments and theseare pre sloped with the deplete built inand you are able to only fell them into placenow when I employed this in place Iimmediately found that there's going tobe a problem there's actually a joistright below where this needs to go and Ican either carve out the joist or I canlook for another option and in this caseI decided to actually throw the showeraround and put it over here it'll exercising just fine and there's nothing in theway of the drain so I can lay this in place over here andthen discover the place that needs to be cutout for the drainage loophole and it actuallyworks out pretty well to turn the showeraround this acces because now there'sgoing to be a shower deplete right thereand a tub duct over here that goes intothe existing hose where the lavatory usedto be that pipe is much

larger and sothat should be big enough to carry theflow of two depletes at the same time incase that ever happened anotheradvantage is that now both of thesedrains can share the same vent linewhich is already right here in the wall so that's the hole for the drain this isthe vent tube that I'm going to be tyinginto and normally I would go ahead andput two more faults here for the newsupply fronts to come up for the showerbut there's already a opening in this platefor some reasonablenes so we're just going touse that next we're gonna put in the newtoilet flange in this area it is now time codethe center of the toilet flange needs tobe at least twelve and a half inchesfrom an unfinished back wall and fifteenand a half inches from the outside wallsI've got more than enough chamber thisdirection so I'm just gonna measure 12 and a half off the back wall to find thecenter item and another thing that'skind of specific to me there's a joistthat runs right here really close towhere this needs to be so I've got aflange that really has an angled piecein it and it was able turn so you can drop itin place and then angle this where itneeds to go I've got that flaw cut off andunfortunately even with this angle it'sjust a little too close to be ableto drop in there I'm really exclusively goingto need maybe another half of an inchso I'm just gonna make this hole alittle bit wider so I can slither thewhole thing over so I've got this readyto go in but before I fix it I'mactually gonna applied this thing in firstthis is called the tile crony andbasically it's just a little spacer madeto go

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